Sado Island Photos: Taraibune

Photos (video here and here) from a recent trip to Sado Island. Taraibue, or tub boats, were traditionally used to fish for shellfish in the shallow waters off Ogi and Shukunegi. My taraibune captain narrated the history of Shukunegi, hamlet and harbor, explaining that a powerful earthquake some 200 years ago caused uplift of 2 meters, curtailing the use of the latter by trading vessels- called kitamaebune (北前船)- sailing between Hokkaido and Osaka. Neighboring Ogi, with its deeper harbor, was able to accomodate the ships, while Shukunegi retained its status as home to maritime aristocracy: shipwrights, carpenters, and captains. Incidentally, the steerer of the taraibune built the boat himself and even paddled it once the 70-odd kilometers to the mainland.

高半(Takahan), Yuzawa, Setting for Kawabata Yasunari's "Snow Country" (雪国)

Takahan, the ryokan in Yuzawa, Niigata,

where Kawabata wrote the novel 雪国, whose famous opening line reads: 国境の長いトンネルを抜けると雪国であった (The train came out of the long tunnel into the snow country).

蜘蛛

赤トンボ

柿

馬

Trip to the Vegetable Market

I popped round to the veg. market this morning: 533円 ($3.58 US) was the total. Quality slightly lower than at the supermarket, where I might have paid 50% more.

Japan's Slow Decline

The authors of this article consider Japan's decline (birthrate, depopulation, economic output, trust in elected officials) against the backdrop of its orderliness, low crime rate, advanced infrastructure, and reliable social services. However, the underbelly of Japanese society reveals a stubbornly high suicide rate, growing poverty (particularly for single-parent families), and a level of overall happiness that is lowest among G7 nations. In Japanese.

Joukou Temple's Jizo-sama, and a Kwannon Figurine

Kwannon is the goddess of mercy, while Jizo (video here) console the souls of children in the underworld.

Joukou Temple (定光寺) and Apple Computer

Joukouji, located in Kamo City, Niigata, is the 'family temple' of Zen Master Otogogawa Chino Koubun, mentor and friend of Steve Jobs.

A Defunct School

Scores of K-12 schools are closed across Japan each year as enrollment plummets owing to accelerating population decline.

Demolition of an outlying building on the grounds of Sakaya Elementary School. For video (sorry for the crazy angle), see here.

Pottering in the City

Photos from a ride in Niigata City.

Photo at top shows a particularly extreme example of a ゴミ屋敷 (gomiyashiki). I couldn't tell if the house was occupied. Neighbors and other concerned parties are not without recourse and may appeal to authorities to order a cleanup. The second photo is of a 1980s(?) arcade game called Robolette. For more photos, see here.

A Shiftless Man: A Japanese Folktale from Hiroshima

Long, long ago, in a certain village, there lived a man proverbial for his laziness. Although he was employed at the home of Oodanna, a neighbor, money burned a hole in our hero's pockets, so that he was forever penniless. He was always taking advantage of his employer's generosity, promising to repay money borrowed. Which of course he never did. The New Year was approaching, and our protagonist (let us call him Goro) discovered he was dangerously low on rice. After all I've borrowed from Oodanna, he's not going to give me any rice, unless I have a cunning plan, mused Goro. And holding his head in his hands, Goro commenced to scheme. Aha, that's it, it's bound to work, exclaimed Goro, whereupon he hurried to let his wife (Setsuko will do) in on the plot; when she understood her role, she put on her saddest face and went to Oodanna's house. Most Honorable Oodanna, the most terrible thing has happened. Truth is, my husband died yesterday, and there's not a grain of rice in the house. You wouldn't be able to lend me a sack of rice, would you? beseeched Setsuko. My, but only yesterday he was hale and hearty! Well, when you're time's up. it's up. However, there's no need to worry, and though I've already loaned you no end of things, you can have a sack of rice. But Oodanna was greatly moved by Setsuko's tale of woe, and he added: Well, I suppose you'd better take all three sacks of rice I've got, and here's some money to tide you over as well. Goro was overjoyed at the success of his ruse, and for some time he lived the life of Riley. But before long things began to run low, and then lower still, so Goro betook himself to Oodanna's to ask for work. Standing outside the house, Goro had a sudden thought: I'm supposed to be dead! But what am I to do? I'll starve if I don't get work! As Goro was pacing about irresolutely, who but Oodanna himself should emerge from the house? Goro dived into a clump of tall grass, thinking to hide. But Oodanna had seen him, and heaving a big sigh, said, Of all people, it's the dead guy. Come now, the joke's gone on long enough. Come on out, you! As Goro didn't comply, the other parted the grass and took up a position right next to him. Goro, placing his hands together, replied, No, I didn't lie to you. I'm praying to you from the shade of leaves of grass. By the way, Dear Reader, 'from the shade of leaves of grass' is an expression that may be used when referring to the dead. THE END http://hukumusume.com/douwa/pc/minwa/03/11.htm

3/11, 13 years on

March 11, 2024, marks 13 years since the Great Tohoku Earthquake and Tsunami of 2011. The disaster claimed the lives of 18,131, with 2829 unaccounted for, and resulted in the total destruction of nearly 130,000 structures, with an additional 1,000,000 buildings damaged. The tsunami, ranging in height from 7.6- 14.8 meters, caused damage to 36,000 structures. I was on the top floor of a rickety old building in Niigata City that Friday afternoon when, at about 2:45. the shaking began. And didn't stop. There were four of us in the meeting room, all of us with experience of strong tremblors, but this was different: the shaking went on and on and on. Finally, after about 45 seconds, our Japanese supervisor, clearly rattled, suggested we vacate the building. At the time none of us had a smartphone, so it wasn't until I returned home, hours later, that I first saw footage (filed under 2011 Earthquake) of the destruction.

Unicycles in the Schoolyard

Photo taken at a primary school in Kanazawa, Ishikawa.

Rural Shrine to Jizo

On a bike ride this morning, a weathered shrine to Jizo-sama (video here).

Among the donors to the shrine, those with the surname 本間、渡辺、丸山 (Honma, Watanabe, and Maruyama) are most numerous.

Rolling Stock

Pictured are new rail carriages at JR East's manufacturing and assembly plant in Niitsu, Niigata City. Nicknamed 'Railway Town', Niitsu, in Niigata's Akiha Ward, has long been an important hub for rail operations in the region. The new rolling stock sports the livery of JR East's Yokosuka-Sobu Line, which comprises 28 stations from Kurihama,in Kanagawa, to Chiba Station.

More Jihanki (自販機）Vending Machine Curiosities

Pottering Pics: Kitamura the Dentist

キタムラ: perhaps written in kana for stylistic purposes, the kanji are 北村, literally 'northern village' 歯科：pronounced shika, dentistry

Shrine to Jizo-sama (地蔵様）

I encountered this tidy, refurbished shrine to the Buddhist deity Jizo on a recent bike ride in Niigata City. The wooden tablets give the names of donors to the shrine and amounts (in multiples of 1,000 [千- sen] or 10,000 [万- man] provided for its upkeep.

Bottom left: 　小杉 (一万）時田（５千円）　　 　　 In other words, one Kosugi has donated 10,000 yen, while a certain Tokita, 5,000 yen.

Nagoya Castle: More Screens and Things

Nagoya Castle: Screens and Things

Nagoya Castle Photos

Nagoya Castle, built in 1615 on the orders or Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa Dynasty (1603-1868).

I visited Nagoya last December and will be sharing photos of the castle in posts to follow. As for the golden roof ornaments, they are shachihoko, mythical creatures with the head of a tiger and tail of a fish. Capable of summoning rain, they offer protection from fire. Those atop Nagoya Castle are the largest in Japan.

Vending Machines

Vending machines are ubiquitous in Japan, and 20 years ago, jihanki (short for jidouhanbaiki- 自動販売機) selling alcohol were a common sight. However, the number of such machines has dropped significantly over the years in response to efforts to curb underage sales; the machine pictured is the only one of its kind remaining in downtown Niigata. Conversely, a new breed of jihanki offer a variety of food items, as here and here.

A Disappearing Japanese Institution: The Sento (銭湯), or Public Bath

It's becoming harder and harder to find public baths, with the following photo (taken in downtown Niigata City) illustrative of many sento today:

"- 乃湯", the first character of the name is missing, but the character 湯 , meaning 'hot water', is the giveaway that this used to be a bath (as are the doors separately marked ’女湯’(Women's Bath) and ’男湯’Men's Bath). However, as the plume of steam indicates, いずみ湯 is still in operation.

The number of public baths peaked at 17,999 in 1968. As of 2022, the figure was 1865. By the way, hot springs are indicated by the characters 温 and 泉, or onsen, literally 'hot spring', while the sen (銭)in sento is a trifling sum of money, 1/100th of a yen.

Ramen Kurai

There's always a queue at らーめん倉井, regardless ofthe day ofthe week or the weather. If you are a fan of 'Japan's soul food' and are in Niigata, it is well worth the wait. (Please note that the shop only accepts cash.)

Kayabuki Thatch Roof

The thatch roof is a feature of traditional Japanese farmhouses, of which the most iconic are the gassho-zukuri of World Heritage site Shirakawa-go. While such roofs last 30-40 years, replacing them is labor intensive, besides requiring a local supply of raw materials. Metal sheeting is the practical solution.

Mamoru-kun, Mascot of Miyako

The mascot of Miyakojima (宮古島-in the Okinawa island chain) is Mamoru. 'To protect, defend', also a name for boys, hence the 'kun'- Mamoru, in the guise of a policeman, watches over the roads in 20 locations throughout the island. I attended a wedding on the island a year ago, and one evening some of us repaired to an izakaya where customers are treated to- I'll let the video do the rest.

Basho and Sora in Niigata: Narrow Road to the Interior

A couple of links to short videos regarding the haiku poets' passage through Niigata in early July, 1689. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kveHtuRNMc8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCjueus1cLg

That's a lot of Takoyaki

Pottering Discoveries: Yoshida Inari Shrine, Niigata

Inari is the god of rice in the Shinto 'pantheon'-since the late Edo Era, Japanese have prayed to the god for commercial success as well as agricultural bounty. Given its history as Japan's most productive rice-growing region, it is unsurprising that Niigata should be home to the greatest number of shrines to Inari, of which that pictured offers a fine example of Inari gates. By the way, the fox: as a predator of mice, the bane of rice farmers, a natural choice to be Inari's messenger (not a representation of the god). As everyone knows, foxes are particularly fond of fried tofu, hence: Inari Zushi and Kitsune Udon/ Soba. 

https://youtube.com/shorts/uxObqqa4DVs?si=YaJySIZabxHS0gfo

  

A Showa-style Dagashi-ya Candy Store

 C-57 is the largest Showa-style dagashiya in Niigata, with over 300 varieties of 'low-grade' (the da [駄] of dagashi ) candies, sweets, and sundries. Located in Niitsu, nicknamed 'Railroad Town' because of its long history as a hub for Japan National Railways (until 1987) and its successor, East Japan Railway Company (familiarly, JR East), the shop takes its name from the old steam locomotive 'C-57', pictured prominently above the entrance.  Clink the link below to see a video of the shop's exterior.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptf5g8KaQk0

For videos of the interior:

https://youtube.com/shorts/6vxh5-9fY3k?

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/5k93LqLW-nM

https://youtube.com/shorts/-UAMhrE-ddQ?si=vcUZXP7X3irMtRX0